Performance & Fitment

• • Application: Classic MOPAR "A" Body vehicles, including:

    • Plymouth Barracuda

    • Dodge Dart

    • Plymouth Valiant

    • Plymouth Duster

  • Length: 35.80" (Exact factory longitudinal length specification for "A" bodies).

  • Hex Clocking: The hex heads on each end are precisely engineered and indexed ("clocked") relative to one another based on the specific spring rate. This guarantees your adjustment bolts remain centered within their operational sweep at standard ride height.

  • Usage: Optimized for high-performance street touring, pro-touring builds, and spirited driving applications.

Premium Construction

• • Material: Solid Alloy Steel. Forged from premium racing-grade steel designed to handle massive torsional torque without sagging, fracturing, or losing its spring memory over time.

  • Manufacturing Process: Centerless Ground & Heat-Treated. Through-hardened to achieve an optimal balance of tensile strength and elasticity. The centerless grinding process strips away surface imperfections, producing a perfectly uniform diameter and eliminating potential "stress risers" where micro-fractures typically start.

  • Coating: Heavy-Duty Powder Coating. Provides a robust barrier against road moisture, engine fluids, and debris, ensuring long-term protection against corrosive pitting.

🇺🇸 MOPAR Muscle Suspension Tech & Installation Notes

Upgrading the longitudinal torsion bars on a classic Chrysler "A" body requires strict adherence to factory procedures to ensure a safe installation and proper chassis leveling:

• ⚠️ Caution: High-Tension Energy: Torsion bars operate under immense mechanical tension. Before attempting to loosen or remove the bars, you must raise the vehicle and support the frame securely with jack stands so the front suspension hangs completely free. Back out the torsion bar adjusting bolts in the lower control arms completely until they are loose to fully unload the tension.

• ❌ Never Use a Pipe Wrench or Vise-Grip: When removing the old bars, never clamp a pipe wrench, vise-grip, or air hammer directly onto the center section of the bar. Any gouge, scratch, or nick created on the centerless-ground body acts as a severe "stress riser." Under the massive twisting loads of driving, the bar will rapidly fatigue and snap at that exact damage point. Use a dedicated MOPAR torsion bar removal tool that clamps securely onto the bar or slips into the rear crossmember.

• ❌ Deep-Clean the Hex Sockets: Over the decades, the female hex receivers inside the lower control arms and the rear chassis crossmember accumulate hardened grease, road grime, and rust. Before sliding the new bars in, thoroughly clean out both receivers using a wire brush and penetrating solvent. If the hex ends do not slide in easily by hand, do not force them with a sledgehammer; verify the sockets are clear of debris.

• ❌ Anti-Seize is Mandatory: Always apply a generous coat of high-pressure, waterproof anti-seize or heavy moly grease to both male hex ends of the bars before sliding them into position. This allows the bar to slide smoothly into place, prevents the ends from seizing into the chassis over time, and eliminates the annoying metal-on-metal squeaking common in classic MOPAR front clips.

• ❌ Left & Right Side Sensitivity: MOPAR torsion bars are highly directional and cannot be interchanged. They are stamped on the rear face with an "L" for Left (Driver's side) or "R" for Right (Passenger's side). Torsion bars are structurally pre-stressed during manufacturing to twist in one specific direction. Installing a bar on the wrong side will force the steel to untwist against its structural set, causing the front end to sag rapidly and risking a catastrophic failure under load. 

What’s Included

• Two torsion bars
• Polyurethane seals
• Stainless clips

Warranty

Backed by a 1-year warranty for peace of mind.

2 in stock (can be backordered)